Istanbul Face Of Tomorrow Istanbul has the most developed gay scene you are likely to find in a Muslim country. That said, homosexuality, while legal and seemingly widespread, still exists out of sight, and some diligence is required to explore gay life in Istanbul. It is quite common to see cute young men strolling arm in arm , but you shouldn't infer a sexual relationship. There is no English-language gay press, map or guide (and only one gay publication in Turkish), and many guidebooks and even web sites are notoriously out of date and unreliable. So think of it as an adventure, and see what you can find. Like broader Turkish society itself, gay life is marked by a rich/poor, traditional/modern, European/Ottoman dichotomy.

 You will see this in the gay bars and dance clubs, of which there are two distinct types. There are modern European-style bars and discos, with high prices, theme décor, and wellto- do Turks in the latest fashion who are likely to identify as gay, at least in private.

 On the other hand, and more fascinating, are the "a la Turka" bars, which cater to a working-class clientele. These tend to be basic, no-frills affairs, with Turkish pop music. Some of the more famous, such as Sahra (Istiklal Caddesi/Sadri Alisik Sokak 40, Taksim) cater to Istanbul's transvestite community -- alleged to be the largest in Europe -- joined by rent boys, working-class youths, and straight tranny admirers.

 All the gay clubs are in the Taksim area, except for the summer-only open-air disco Douche Club (Sepetciler Kasri/ Kennedy Caddesi 3, Sarayburnu, Eminonu) overlooking the Golden Horn at the foot of the Topkapi Palace.

 You can also take in a hammam. There were reputedly several where discreet gay encounters took place, but this seems to be on the wane. Sadly, Turks seldom go to the hammam now, preferring the pleasures of indoor plumbing.

 The historic hammams are worth a visit for the spectacular architecture, but the scrubbing can be perfunctory and the clientele all tourists. One older hammam, Çukurcuma (Çurkacuma Caddesi 57, Beyoglu), does function as a de facto gay bathhouse -- it's open all night.

 There are two locations for lodging in Istanbul, each with certain advantages. Most tourists choose to stay in Sultanahmet, the historic center just steps from the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the bazaars and other major sites. The plentiful hotels here tend to occupy renovated 19th-century wooden Ottoman houses, and are moderate in amenities and price.